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So i had the interior plastic parts media blasted in preparation of painting them.
My aim was to have the oxydized surface removed to reveal fresh material… i already knew some of the parts were hard and brittle as glass.
But even the shop doing the media blasting for me did not expect that stuff to shatter in the cabin!
My paint guy provided me with the tools and glue to repair this damage. So far it looks the part.
What once was four is now one part again. Yay!
All areas have been reinforced with this plastic mesh and feel good and durable. The intention of this glue and mesh is to repair plastic bumpers and body parts on modern vehicles.
Short news update!
I found a painter to do the W250. It’ll get picked up on thursday this week. Gotta thrash a bit to get everything ready…
It’ll receive the same original paint scheme, the bumpers gonna be grey as it is now OR i’ll put on the shortbeds aftermarket bumper… kinda like that too.
Wheels will be white, just like factory…
Again a long pause between blog entries. Things have been going very slow with the race truck. Let me explain why.
When i last worked on the electrical components and finally understood how the tail lamp fault signal generation worked, i began to realize that this is not the way to go for this project.
This thought got clearer and more palpable when i took apart the headlight and found an even more complicated circuit i would have to recreate.
Custom electronics are a chore. I want to be able to use off the shelf OEM parts if possible.
Break it, order a new one, install, race. Minimal downtime is key. Which is why i am going through the hassle of integrating OEM suspension parts from other vehicles after all…
Sometimes, that’s harder than custom building every single part.
So it’s just 400 bucks down the gutter to realize that the Challengers wiring harness is not the future wiring harness for this truck.
If i don’t put in its light circuits, there is no need for a modified head light switch, no need for a modified steering column, etc.
I came to the point where i did not see that much need for the BCM and if that’s gone, there is no need for the RF Hub, electric door locks, etc.
SEMA started a few days ago and just yesterday i learned that Mother Mopar loves me.
At least i want to interpret it that way. “It” is the release of a standalone wiring harness for 6.4 Apache engines, just like mine.
See for yourself.
It’s a 1800$ kit containing an accelerator pedal, engine wiring charness, chassis harness, PDC, ground jumper, O2 sensors, the PCM and a charge air temp sensor. It comes with more stuff than i need but spare parts are good.
Mopar also released retrofit kits containing rear-sump oil pans, hydraulic power steering setups, etc.
It’s not cheap but reasonable. I paid about as much for the ultra crappy EZ-EFI V1.
Just at the right time to keep this project rolling.
It’s a good thing i did not sell or throw away or destroy any of the wiring i pulled from the truck. It will get repairs and modifications where necessary and the steering column will be returned to stock.
how’s it going?
Look what i just got in the mail. SRT Scat Pack bees for the race truck. Fancy!
That Porsche drivers have got to know what beat them😉
Tons of steel with too much power. After the first and frustrating approach i took yet another turn with the SRT-10 parts.
Because SRT-10 LCAs are expensive and hard to aquire, i just use regular LCAs with the SRT-10 knuckles. I made a jig for the purpose of better mock up and the making of the first frame mount brackets for the LCAs. The dimensions are from a stock Ram 1500 SRT-10.
After i figured out what was wrong with this jig, i corrected my error and now the LCA looks like it would fit under the truck again. Still not exactly where i want it to locate but i can’t move or cut into the crossmember.
Where new things are added, old stuff has to go. Say bye bye to the stock bump stop and LCA mount.
Drilling rivets overhead is NO fun, no matter how uber sharp the drill bit is.
Bozo move corrected. Spot the difference?