repair dem tunes!

Aloha.

Yesterday i finally had it with this truck.

The rattling and scratching speaker in the drivers door annoyed me enough to get going with the repair. It also is pretty weak compared to the other speakers in the truck.

In the past months i gathered some experience with this kind of work and i racked up the equipment, tools and materials (read: leftovers from other repair jobs).

So here is a quick rundown on how i repaired a defective membrane on one of the rare speakers of my 1985 W250 “Mary”.

Removal from the door required pulling the doorcard which won’t be covered right now.

It’s simple: basic tools + brute force.

Fast forward through the disassembly and removal, here we have the problem on the table.

It is pretty obvious what caused the rattle and scratching noises.

The membrane had come off the metal cage by what seems to be fluid damage and force excerted from the plastic retainer the speaker is located in.

I began to disect the speaker and remove the gasket.

The gasket is the surround around the membrane made from cardboard.

Pretty obvious, huh?

I can repair that. The next step was to remove the membrane alltogether to try and flatten the distorted edge for re-glueing. It came off the cage easily and cutting and lifiting it from the paper cone was straightforward as well.

No problems whatsoever, the glue had lost all of its properties, was loose and could be peeled off.

To straighten the distorted edge of the membrane i used my electric iron, which worked surprisingly well and quick.

All flat again:

Getting ready for the glue-up.

And all slobbered up again. Sorry there is no pictures of the application of the glue but this stuff draws strands and tacks up quickly and i did not want to cover my phone with gluey fingerprints or stick a glove to it…

It looks a bit messy but that was done on purpose to reinforce the glue joint between the membrane and the cone. This will not hinder the “performance” of the speaker and is covered by the speaker covers.

I then hooked it up to my trusty old signal generator for aligning the cone and testing the speaker.

This particular signal generator is perfect for that task because of its output range of 3-30 volts. No problems could be heard any more.

Now why is this just part of the problem? Well, the speaker does not rattle and scratch anymore but it still is weak.

This might be a problem with the voice coil beeing damaged by the prolonged scratching but then again the connections might be wrong. I fiddled with these when i had to replace the original radio and there might be a phase error (swapped plus/minus) which leads to reduced output.

But that is a totally different story…

 

By the way, does anybody have the Chrysler AM/FM/Cassette radio, with a black face and part no. 4311 686 left over and would like to donate it to the project?

If it does not work, no problem, i can fix these. I just can’t find one…

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undead

Hi there,

just to let you know: this project is not dead at all.
I ran into some personal problems beginning of the year and it cost me about the whole year to kinda sort this out.

The project indeed is on the side burner but still occupies a lot of thought every day.
Especially the front axle really gives me headaches because i am not really sure if i should stick to my original plan and modify the original crossmember and build a smaller second one for the rear LCA mounts

OR

if i just should build a subframe assembly that will accept both LCA mounts and bolt to the frame as a unit.

This would allow for working around the shape of the engine and its accessories… That’s something that will have to be thought through before i continue building stuff.
I’ll update this thread as i proceed.

I think the next update will be sometime in January.

Stay tuned.
Thanks.

Alex

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Scratched that itch…

I had some cash burning a hole in my pocket.

Here’s the complete electronics to run my truck.

 

Mopar Standalone wiring harness for the 392 Gen 3 Hemi engine (for manual transmissions OR automatics with a separate controller only).

A Racepak IQ3 dash and the power steering pump kit for the crate Hemis.

Yeeeees.

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Shoehorning!

I was always under the impression that “it should fit” , “it’s gotta fit in there”, “the shape of the frame rails and headers fit together” …

With the engine in a OEM V8 location for our trucks, none of that happened.

With a bit of … hacking stuff apart, conservatively speaking, things kind of fall together as i hoped they would. The engine needs to move back another 2″ and then it’s home i think.

Installed the lift tool, broke out the grinder, hacked a cutout into the floor after the firewall left the body. Now see for yourself.

The headers seem to touch but they don’t. Actually there’s like 1.5″ of clearance around them. I could not install the engine with the headers attached, but they “rolled” into place very easily.

Now to break my head about engine mounts…

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… tear down that wall!

Mr. Kingcrunch, please tear down that wall!

Allrighty then, all engines are free to travel.

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uh, got steering?

Been working on/off on this project. Little bits here and there.

Such as the steering column.

 

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making connections… and more destruction

Howdy.

Got little done on the truck but important stuff has been brought on its way.

A few days ago i took delivery of a bunch of Borgeson parts, universal joints and materials for a telescoping shaft. Which led to this:

Unfortunately i had to grind a notch into the drivers side frame rail but now i have a steering rack in the truck. Well almost, the rack needs attaching to the frame crossmember.

To do that i made another jig. Or better: I am in the process of making another jig, because that’s where i stopped last week.

This is a piece i cut out of the ’05 donor frame cutoff i have in my shop (for taking measurements and such). It’s been centered on the crossmember and pinned for permanent alignment. This jig will receive guide bushings for a 10mm cutter (a regular drill would not work at that angle) to make the first bolt holes.

Using this jig i was also able to determine that i could raise the rack another 3/8″ so i get almost flat tie rods.

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